Tornado Typhoon (1958, England)

In 1958 the British company presents its new model Tornado Tornado Typhoon Sportbrake.
In addition to plug-in modules, the firm manufactured Tornado sports cars that date two and four parking spaces in the form of coupes and cabriolets. Its fiber-body cars have racks mounted on cash, the headlights are covered by a Plexiglas baffle while the intake manifold of two bodies the bonnet crown. The engines of 1,200 cc and 2,000 are provided by Ford and Triumph respectively.
Based on the model of fourth places Typhoon increased wheelbase, the model is developed Sportbrake combi. The roof is extended until the end of the body and a door as practicable to the top back. This vehicle is equipped with a four-cylinder engine line and lateral operated valves, provided by Ford.
With its 55 hp engine reaches 150 km / h. Sportbrake The model is manufactured until 1962 and became a model for a number of sports combined in subsequent years the market will draw other manufacturers.

Mercedes Benz 540K (1938, Germany)

The Mercedes-Benz 540K (K = compressor) is the successor to the Model 500 K. With its classic lines, this vehicle combines the best technology with the highest dynamic comfort.
because the firm takes into account the demands of their customers, each of the 447 vehicles produced is different. With the compressor connected, eight-cylinder engine generates an output of 180 hp and a top speed of 170 km / h, consuming 30 liters per 100 km is said that Adolf Hitler gave her a Mercedes-Benz 540K "Long", whose length exceeds 6m series models in 1m.

Restoration Classic Cars Tip 10 - Cotter Pin Removal

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Sometimes it's easy to remove cotter pins and sometimes it seems like they are holding the entire car together. You pull and bend and twist, using a strong pair of pliers, and it takes way too long to get the pin out. You've even managed to break perfectly good needle-nose pliers by trying to get a cotter pin out, haven't you? What to do?

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The chief reason a cotter pin is hard to remove is because you are pulling "in line" with the pin. Any bends or twists in the pin lodge it in its hole. What you need to do is use leverage, and that means you need to convert in-line motion to 90-degree motion.

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A way to do this is to use the old-fashioned, seldom-used drum brake tool. You know the one! It looks like a weird pair of scissors that has a sharp point on one end and a bent spiral on the other. It has long arms that pivot, to provide lots of leverage for those tough brake return springs.

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Position the brake tool so that you can grab the cotter's eyelet with one end or the other, then use the leverage of the scissors-action to help pull out the pin. It works!

Morris Minor MM Classic Cars

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Production	1948–1953; 250,962 produced
Assembly	Oxford, England
Body style(s)	2-door saloon, 4-door saloon, 2-door convertible
Engine(s)	918 cc (56.0 cu in) Morris Sidevalve engine I4

Restoration Classic Cars Tip 9 - Drat That Tape!

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We've all had this problem. The roll of masking tape in the garage has been sitting around for several years, through winter and summer. We desperately need to use it and now, when we start to pull a strip, it comes off in shreds or tears along its length. It's nearly a full roll and it seems to be useless. Besides, now we'll have to go buy another roll or find a neighbor who has some.

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Don't run off just yet! There's probably some hope for that stiff, aged roll of tape. Take it into the kitchen and place it in the microwave oven. Give it 30 seconds (no more!) on High and take it out when the buzzer sounds.

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How is it now? Can you tear off a length without problems? Chances are you can, since you've "rejuvenated" the adhesive with microwave energy. The tape should stay in good shape for quite a while afterward, and you can repeat the "treatment" several more times before you cook the adhesive forever.

History Of A Morris Minor MM Classic Cars The End Part

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Early cars had a painted section in the centre of the bumpers to cover the widening of the production car from the prototypes. This widening of 4 inches (102 mm) is also visible in the creases in the bonnet. Exports to the United States began in 1949 with the headlamps removed from within the grille to be mounted higher on the wings to meet safety regulations. These became standard on all Minors for 1951. When production of the first series ended, just over a quarter of a million had been sold with a surprising 30% being the convertible Tourer model.

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A tourer tested by the British magazine The Motor in 1950 had a top speed of 58.7 mph (94.5 km/h) and could accelerate from 0–50 mph (80 km/h) in 29.2 seconds. A fuel consumption of 42 miles per imperial gallon (6.7 L/100 km; 35 mpg-US) was recorded. The test car cost £382 including taxes.

Restoration Classic Cars Tip 8 - Brake Fluid Etiquette

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Brake fluid "eats" paint. Although widely used for many decades, brake fluid is nasty stuff that - given the chance - will spill onto your paint and strip it off. Thousands of unhappy do-it-yourselfers have had the unfortunate experience of "topping off" the master cylinder and spilling a little fluid on the firewall, fender or cowl area under the windshield wipers. Later they've discovered damaged paint that couldn't be buffed out or repaired without a touchup.

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A good habit to get into is to wrap the brake fluid container with a soft paper towel or rag, extending the material close to the pour spout. Then, if any drops fall they will be absorbed by the towel. If your master cylinder is hard to reach with the container's spout, place a large screwdriver (cleaned, of course) into the reservoir and place the spout on the screwdriver's shaft. Slowly pour and the fluid will creep along the shaft. When finished filling, seal the container tightly and throw away the towel or rag to prevent its touching the car's finish later. Just because it dries off doesn't mean the residue won't harm the paint.

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Oh, and that opened container? Well, if it's less than half full don't keep it around more than 6 months. It will have absorbed too much moisture.