Here's a little peek at more progress. I finished replacing the driver side infected lower 1/4 area, and started experimenting with paint stripper on the driver fender and door. As long as I put it on thick, keep it moist and wait at least 45 minutes, it works well. This time I've decided to slow down, focusing on one part of the project at a time.
The pics below show what is done so far.
Monday, November 29, 2010
Saturday, November 20, 2010
FACEBOOK PAGES UP & REVVING !
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Thursday, November 18, 2010
Used Classic Morris Minor Cars models Morris Minor 1000 Parts 2
Used Classic Morris Minor Cars models Morris Minor 1000 Parts 2
Classic Morris Minor Cars
Morris Minor Cars Parts 1
The Minor 1000 gained an even larger engine, 1098 cc (67 in³, in 1962. It could now reach 77 mph (124 km/h), yet fuel economy was down to 38 mpg (6.2 L/100 km). Other modifications included a new dashboard layout (a lidded glove box on the passenger side, an open cubby hole in front of the driver), a different heater, plus new, larger tail/flasher and front side/flasher lamps.
Van versions were popular with the British Post Office, and some of these had front wings made of rubber, in order to cope with the sometimes unforgiving busy situations in which they were expected to work.
During the life of the Minor 1000 model, production declined. The last Convertible/Tourer was manufactured on 18 August 1969, and the saloon line was discontinued the next year. 1971 was the last year for the Traveller and commercial versions. Nearly 850,000 Minor 1000s were made in all. The Minor 1000 cars was officially replaced by the Morris Marina, which replaced it on the Cowley production lines. For the management of what had, by 1971, mutated into the British Leyland Motor Corporation, the Morris Marina was seen primarily as a "cheap to build" competitor to Ford's top selling (and in many respects conservatively engineered) Cortina, rather than as a replacement for the (in its day) strikingly innovative Morris Minor.
Van versions were popular with the British Post Office, and some of these had front wings made of rubber, in order to cope with the sometimes unforgiving busy situations in which they were expected to work.
During the life of the Minor 1000 model, production declined. The last Convertible/Tourer was manufactured on 18 August 1969, and the saloon line was discontinued the next year. 1971 was the last year for the Traveller and commercial versions. Nearly 850,000 Minor 1000s were made in all. The Minor 1000 cars was officially replaced by the Morris Marina, which replaced it on the Cowley production lines. For the management of what had, by 1971, mutated into the British Leyland Motor Corporation, the Morris Marina was seen primarily as a "cheap to build" competitor to Ford's top selling (and in many respects conservatively engineered) Cortina, rather than as a replacement for the (in its day) strikingly innovative Morris Minor.
Engines:
* 1956-1962:948 cc A-Series Straight-4, 37 hp (28 kW) at 4750 rpm and 50 lbf·ft (68 N·m) at 2500 rpm
* 1962-1971:1098 cc A-Series Straight-4, 48 hp (36 kW) at 5100 rpm and 60 lbf·ft (81 N·m) at 2500 rpm
Used Classic Restoration Cars Tip Troubles getting a thin layer of body filler...? Parts 1
Used Classic Restoration Cars Tip Troubles getting a thin layer of body filler...? Parts 1
Restoration Cars
Restoration Cars Parts 1
Anyone who's used body filler knows how difficult it is to spread over "delicate" areas. You know: when the filler has to spread over a very thin imperfection or just has to provide that "last little surface."
The problem is that the filler is fairly viscous and resists being spread in a thin film. The result is air bubbles or a thicker-than-desired surface that requires more careful sanding. While there are specialized fillers designed to spread more evenly, here's another useful idea: Add a little liquid fiberglass resin (you invariably have a big can of it that will never get used up!) to the body filler and catalyst mixture. Stir everything well (the catalyst works in both products, so don't worry) and there you have it - a smooth, less-viscous, creamy mixture that will spread beautifully.
The problem is that the filler is fairly viscous and resists being spread in a thin film. The result is air bubbles or a thicker-than-desired surface that requires more careful sanding. While there are specialized fillers designed to spread more evenly, here's another useful idea: Add a little liquid fiberglass resin (you invariably have a big can of it that will never get used up!) to the body filler and catalyst mixture. Stir everything well (the catalyst works in both products, so don't worry) and there you have it - a smooth, less-viscous, creamy mixture that will spread beautifully.
Tuesday, November 16, 2010
Used Classic Restoration Cars Tip The Right Way to Check Your Oil Parts 1
Used Classic Restoration Cars Tip The Right Way to Check Your Oil Parts 1
Restoration Cars
Restoration Cars Parts 1
You know how the motor control and in the case of the automatic transmission fluid: just look at the dipstick. The right - or wrong - the level of coverage is obvious.
What is not is obviously the condition of the oil, so the next time it is a clean piece of white paper with you. Paper towels or toilet paper are most suitable for this operation.
Clean the dipstick on the white paper and watch the remaining oil. Engine oil should be firm, without a particle or "sect". If they exist, you have to watch out for leaks and oil change. Recognizing the rest of smell, traces of gasoline, or "blow-by" or the smell of burnt oil.
Purposes of this test with gear oil, it should also be a color (usually red), not "burned" visible particles or color. If it smells burnt, it was too long or there are problems inside the transmission.
What is not is obviously the condition of the oil, so the next time it is a clean piece of white paper with you. Paper towels or toilet paper are most suitable for this operation.
Clean the dipstick on the white paper and watch the remaining oil. Engine oil should be firm, without a particle or "sect". If they exist, you have to watch out for leaks and oil change. Recognizing the rest of smell, traces of gasoline, or "blow-by" or the smell of burnt oil.
Purposes of this test with gear oil, it should also be a color (usually red), not "burned" visible particles or color. If it smells burnt, it was too long or there are problems inside the transmission.
Used Classic Morris Minor Cars models Morris Minor 1000 Parts 1
Used Classic Morris Minor Cars models Morris Minor 1000 Parts 1
Morris Minor Cars
Morris Minor Cars Parts 1
The Morris Minor Cars was again updated in 1956, when the engine is in capacity to 948 cc (57.9 cu in) increases. The division into two parts windscreen has increased with a curve of a piece and the rear window was replaced. In 1961 trafficators by more modern style lights flashing direction indicators have replaced and then the norm for the UK market. A luxury car on the lower floor, but with higher BMC B series engine was sold as One-Point-Five/Wolseley Riley from 1500 to 1957: a version with additional rear fins, or variation of this Wolseley Riley was also in Australia as Morris Major manufactures.
In February 1961 the Morris Minor was the first British car to sell over 1,000,000 units. (In Italy, the Fiat 600 won his first million in the same month.) In order to achieve, limited edition of 350 two-door sedan was small with a distinctive purple color, and remember a white interior created. Even the badge on the hood has been changed to read "Minor 1,000,000" instead of the usual "Children 1000". The millionth the same child, the National Union of Journalists, where they planned to use as a prize in a competition for the benefit of the widow of the union and Orphan Fund. The company, which was at the same time, a minor celebrity in London's Great Ormond Street Hospital for Sick Children, but the car was built from cake.
In February 1961 the Morris Minor was the first British car to sell over 1,000,000 units. (In Italy, the Fiat 600 won his first million in the same month.) In order to achieve, limited edition of 350 two-door sedan was small with a distinctive purple color, and remember a white interior created. Even the badge on the hood has been changed to read "Minor 1,000,000" instead of the usual "Children 1000". The millionth the same child, the National Union of Journalists, where they planned to use as a prize in a competition for the benefit of the widow of the union and Orphan Fund. The company, which was at the same time, a minor celebrity in London's Great Ormond Street Hospital for Sick Children, but the car was built from cake.
Friday, November 12, 2010
SCS 5 STAR MGOC APPROVAL
MANY THANKS TO ALL MGOC MEMBERS WHO TOOK THE TIME TO SUBMIT THIS YEARS ANNUAL MGOC QUESTIONAIRE. WE MUST BE DOING SOMETHING RIGHT AS WE REMAIN 5 STAR APPROVED SUPPLIERS !
Wednesday, November 3, 2010
Restoration Classic Cars : Used Classic Restoration Cars Tip Cleaning Delicate Parts 1
Used Classic Restoration Cars Tip Cleaning Delicate Parts 1
Restoration Cars
Restoration Cars Parts 1
Do you have a filthy, painted-over, but otherwise salvageable VIN, engine, transmission or other identification plate that is original to the car? Probably so, and you don't know how to clean it up without losing the very imprints you're trying to save.
Many of these plates were silk-screened or printed in easy-to-remove, oil-based inks, so you don't want to attempt a cleaning using solvents or abrasives. What should you do?
Do what the restoration Car people at museums do, of course! Use gel-type hand cleaners!
That's right, the art historians who regularly restore priceless paintings use everyday gel hand cleaners (you know, the greasy stuff that doesn't contain pumice!) to gently lift off layers of crud from the delicate finishes.
Use very soft cloth or cotton balls spread with a thin film of cleaner. Gently wipe the plate surface back and forth, changing the cleaning material as it picks up dirt and grease. Be patient, because this will take considerable time. Eventually your plate will look quite presentable, if not like new. When finished you can apply a little polish to the plate to brighten it up.
Your identification plate might not have anywhere near the value of a museum painting, but it's just as important to you, so clean it carefully.
Many of these plates were silk-screened or printed in easy-to-remove, oil-based inks, so you don't want to attempt a cleaning using solvents or abrasives. What should you do?
Do what the restoration Car people at museums do, of course! Use gel-type hand cleaners!
That's right, the art historians who regularly restore priceless paintings use everyday gel hand cleaners (you know, the greasy stuff that doesn't contain pumice!) to gently lift off layers of crud from the delicate finishes.
Use very soft cloth or cotton balls spread with a thin film of cleaner. Gently wipe the plate surface back and forth, changing the cleaning material as it picks up dirt and grease. Be patient, because this will take considerable time. Eventually your plate will look quite presentable, if not like new. When finished you can apply a little polish to the plate to brighten it up.
Your identification plate might not have anywhere near the value of a museum painting, but it's just as important to you, so clean it carefully.
Tuesday, November 2, 2010
Morris Minor : Used Classic Morris Minor Cars models Morris Minor Series II Parts 1
Used Classic Morris Minor Cars models Morris Minor Series II Parts 1
Morris Minor Cars
Morris Minor Cars Parts 1
In 1952, the Morris Minor Cars line was updated with an Austin-designed 803 cc (49.0 cu in) overhead valve A-Series engine replacing the original sidevalve unit. The engine had been designed for the Morris Minor Cars's main competition, the Austin A30, but became available as Austin Cars and Morris Minor Cars were merged into the British Motor Corporation. The new engine felt stronger, though all measurements were smaller than the old. The 52 second drive to 60 mph (97 km/h) was still calm, with 63 mph (101 km/h) as the top speed. Fuel consumption also rose to 36 mpg (6.5 L/100 km).
An estate version was introduced, known as the Traveller (a Morris Minor Cars naming tradition for estates, also seen on the Mini Cars), along with Morris Minor van and Morris Minor pick-up versions. The Traveller featured an external structural ash (wood) frame for the rear bodywork, with two side-hinged rear doors. The frame was varnished rather than painted and a highly visible feature of the bodystyle. Rear bodies of the Morris Minor van versions were all steel. The 4-seat Morris Minor convertible and Morris Minor saloon variants continued as well.
The grille was modified in October, 1954, and a new dashboard with central speedometer was fitted. Almost half a million examples had been produced when the line ended in 1956.
The Motor magazine tested a 4-door saloon in 1952. It reported a top speed of 62 mph (100 km/h) and acceleration from 0–50 mph (80 km/h) in 28.6 seconds. A fuel consumption of 39.3 miles per imperial gallon (7.19 L/100 km; 32.7 mpg-US) was recorded. The test car cost £631 including taxes.
An estate version was introduced, known as the Traveller (a Morris Minor Cars naming tradition for estates, also seen on the Mini Cars), along with Morris Minor van and Morris Minor pick-up versions. The Traveller featured an external structural ash (wood) frame for the rear bodywork, with two side-hinged rear doors. The frame was varnished rather than painted and a highly visible feature of the bodystyle. Rear bodies of the Morris Minor van versions were all steel. The 4-seat Morris Minor convertible and Morris Minor saloon variants continued as well.
The grille was modified in October, 1954, and a new dashboard with central speedometer was fitted. Almost half a million examples had been produced when the line ended in 1956.
The Motor magazine tested a 4-door saloon in 1952. It reported a top speed of 62 mph (100 km/h) and acceleration from 0–50 mph (80 km/h) in 28.6 seconds. A fuel consumption of 39.3 miles per imperial gallon (7.19 L/100 km; 32.7 mpg-US) was recorded. The test car cost £631 including taxes.
Engines:
* 1952-1956:803 cc A-Series Straight-4, 30 hp (22 kW) at 4800 rpm and 40 lbf·ft (54 N·m) at 2400 rpm
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