Restoration Classic Car Tip 4 - Whitewall Preservation

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In the old days we washed the car and then used the same soapy water and a brush to clean the whitewalls. They came out nice and bright. Today's whitewalls seem to turn beige after a few weeks and the auto parts stores' shelves are filled with special sprays and nostrums to clean whitewalls. Many of these products work, but leave a cloudy film on the body of the tire or cause it to lose its soft sheen.

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The reason whitewalls become brown is because of the synthetic compounds in the tire rubber. As the tire sits these compounds react with air and form the brown film. It cleans off the tire but stains the whitewall.

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One of the best - and least expensive - methods of cleaning whitewalls is a bleaching cleanser, such as Comet or Ajax. Wet the tire, cover a wet scrub brush with the cleanser and scrub the whitewall. It will brighten up instantly. Scrub the entire circumference, then wash off the whole tire with soap and water.

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If you like to use preserving or shining agents (ArmorAll, etc.) be sure to read the label to see if it should be spread on whitewalls.

Morris Minor Classic Cars (1928)

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Manufacturer	Morris Motor Company
Production	1928–1933 86,318
Predecessor	none
Successor	Morris Eight
Class	Small car
Body style(s)	4 door saloon 2 seat sports 4 seat tourer Coupe van

Restoration Classic Cars Tip 3 - Those Nasty Magnetic Screwdrivers

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It's tempting to purchase a set of magnetic screwdrivers, isn't it? There are occasions where being able to lift up a dropped screw, nut or c-clip.

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with a magnetized screwdriver just makes sense, but don't invest in one. The reason? Because most of the time a magnetized screwdriver will move a fastener around or otherwise make itself a nuisance.

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Instead, keep a refrigerator magnet - or other suitable magnet - stuck to your tool box. When you need a magnetized screwdriver, just wipe the tool in one direction only a few times across the magnet. Voila, it's magnetized! When you want to demagnetize it, wipe the tool across the magnet in both directions.

A Brief Overview Of The History Of A Morris Minor Classic Cars (1928) The End Part

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The engine was proving to be expensive to make and suffered from oil getting into the dynamo and so, in 1931, a simplified side-valve version was designed giving nearly the same power output, 19 bhp (14 kW) at 4000 rpm. For a while both version were produced with the overhead-camshaft unit surviving until 1932 in the four-door model which also gained hydraulic brakes. The use of hydraulics distinguished the Minor from the competitor Austin 7 with its less reliable cable brakes. The lower cost of the new engine allowed the Minor to be sold for the magic £100 in a stripped-down two seater.

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In 1932 the body was slightly restyled with a more rounded look and the fuel tank moved from the scuttle area below the windscreen to the rear of the car. An electric fuel pump was fitted. 1933 saw a four-speed gearbox replacing the three-speed unit on the more expensive models and in 1934 this was fitted with synchromesh on the top ratios. All models now had hydraulic brakes.

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The Minor was replaced by the Morris Eight in 1934 which continued as a sales success and the Morris Minor name was revived in 1948 on the Issigonis designed car.

Restoration Classic Cars Tip 2 - Masking Made Easy

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The problem: Painting stuff without removing it from the car. You know, that linkage on the carburetor needs some color but you have to do it without painting the carb itself, the intake manifold or valve covers. Or, maybe the

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panel holding the radiator could use a coat of paint but it's too much trouble to remove the radiator, hoses, brackets, etc. Maybe you're dyeing the door panel and need to mask the handles, or touching up a small area of the dash. Using newspaper and masking tape is difficult, time-consuming and frequently lets overspray through.

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The solution: Aluminum foil. Everybody has a roll of this inexpensive, versatile product. It "forms" itself over any shape easily and quickly. Masking tape sticks very well to its edges, without the nuisance of cutting newspaper and trying to hold it while sticking a strip of tape to its edge. Also, aluminum foil works great to cover carburetor intakes, generator/alternator air intakes, A/C compressors and all the other stuff you don't want to get wet when you clean your engine.

A Brief Overview Of The History Of A Morris Minor Classic Cars (1928) Part 2

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The engine was based on one designed by Wolseley who were by then owned by William Morris personally. It was largely a new design being much smaller than any existing Wolseley unit and having the overhead camshaft driven by a geared shaft that passed through the dynamo carrying the armature. A single SU carburettor was fitted and coil ignition used. The engine produced 20 bhp (15 kW) at 4000 rpm. The electrical system was 6 volt.

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The 78 inch (1981 mm) wheelbase chassis was built of channel-section steel and the suspension was by half-elliptical springs all round with rigid front and rear axles. Brakes were on all wheels and cable operated. Initially the only body types offered were a 2-door fabric-bodied saloon and a four-seat tourer. At the launch at London's 1928 Motor Show, the saloon cost £135 and the tourer £125. Steel-bodied cars and a van were added for 1930.

Restoration Classic Cars Tip 1 - Chattering Windshield Wipers Sure are Annoying!

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Windshield wipers chatter and skip even though they are new? The reason is your windshield is dirty! Yeah, we know you cleaned it with Windex after washing the car, but it's still dirty with an invisible film of road salts and oils. This film must be scrubbed off. The best thing to accomplish this task is Bon Ami cleanser, still found in its original 1940s-style can in the supermarket. Wet down the windshield, liberally sprinkle the powder and scrub with a soft-bristle brush (you know, the kind your Grandmother used to scrub the kitchen floor with). Rinse thoroughly and dry off with paper towels. You can clean older wiper blades the same way too, since the films accumulate on them as well.

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Tip for this tip: Do this before washing the car to avoid mess.

2nd Tip for this tip: Don't (repeat: don't), use Ajax or Comet or any other chlorinated or pumice-containing cleanser. If you do, you're going to have to learn how to re-polish the windshield glass. We'll be doing an article on how to do that, but that's later!

A Brief Overview Of The History Of A Morris Minor Classic Cars (1928) Part 1

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The Morris Minor Classic Cars was produced by the Morris Motor Company in two versions. From 1928 to 1932 the cars had an 847 cc single overhead camshaft engine. This was then replaced by a more conventional side-valve unit of the same capacity until production ended in 1934. 39,087 of the overhead camshaft type and 47,231 of the side valve version were made.

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The success of the Austin 7, launched in 1922, stimulated Austin's competitors to come up with rival designs. The Minor was Morris's attack on the very small-car market that had really been created by the Seven. Although the company's main assembly plant was at Cowley, outside Oxford, the new car was not designed there. The chassis and running gear were designed at one of the company's subsidiaries, EG Wrigley, a Birmingham-based gearbox maker who had been bought out of receivership and renamed Morris Commercial Cars.