More Olds!

I am back at the '62 Oldsmobile, this time finishing the last rust areas and a leaded area that started bubbling. The passenger rear corner had bulges in the lead applied to cover the overlap seams where the rear corner piece meets the 1/4 panel. The factory did this the same way after spot welding the panels together. This particular area was redone when a new entire 1/4 panel was attached sometime early in the car's life. The liberal use of lead indicates this to me.

The body man attached this area of panels with brazing and sheet metal screws, with welding elsewhere. Then the seams were covered with lots of lead. I would never have messed with this area, but here is where the lead was bubbling. After removing lead from the seams I found pockets where something didn't get along with the lead and steel living together. I wonder if it was a sort of oxidation, impurities in the lead, or the steel base not being totally prepared.

So I began to remove all of the lead with careful heating, pushing soft blobs away and wiping the wet lead with a rag. The lead used seemed extensive; I also didn't want to put lead back onto a not-so-perfect seam full of crevices and overlap, being afraid that no matter how clean I get it, there would likely be remaining impurity issues. I didn't want the bulges to reappear after I finish this car. So I decided to remove the overlap areas entirely, and weld new sheet metal patches level with the outer area.


Forming little pieces was not difficult, as I had a nice pattern to follow. The curves were very easy since the patches were so small, only requiring using my hand and pliers to shape them. The main reason I made one small patch (and attached it) at a time was to keep the overall shape of this panel in line. This helped me avoid moving the middle panel out of alignment with the shape it needed to follow.


This is the only time I needed any other tool than my hand held pliers. I just needed a little bend on the brake.


Second to last piece being fitted for trimming.


Careful grinding, filing and a little picking with the body hammer left the pieces pretty smooth. Now I can use a little bit of filler and the area can be fully cleaned/scuffed for adhesion. No lead needed, either.


Not too bad!


Here's an area under the pass. door where I needed to make a new patch. The brake, stretcher and hammer-on-anvil were used for this little patch. Welds still look nasty, just waiting to be carefully ground smooth.

XMAS OPENING TIMES !

XMAS 2010 : Our parts shop will close at 5.00 pm on Thursday 23rd December. We are open between Xmas & New Year on Wednesday 29th & Thursday 30th 10.00am -2.00pm. Parcel Force & Royal Mail will be collecting / delivering on these dates too !
We reopen as normal on Tuesday 4th January 2011 9.00 am. Website ordering and... e-mail quotes available throughout the holiday period. All orders placed before 1st January will be processed at the cheaper vat rate .
Sincere Xmas wishes to all our classic car fans around the world - I hope you have a safe , healthy and prosperous 2011.
Cheers
Andy

Woodward Fab Bead Roller Modification

I've been wanting to try a bead roller. Ever since I began setting up the construction of my '30 Model A coupe I have wanted to be able to form floor panels and body patches that would use beads, grooves and flanges. Problem is, I don't want to spend $1,000 or more for a decent roller and set of dies. But through online searching I've found actually good information on the cheapo bead rollers from Harbor Freight and others. There is just one catch...they need major stiffening side to side and up and down.

The picture below is the one I decided to go with. It is from Woodward Fab, and comes with 6 sets of dies. It is made of solid steel plate, just shy of 1/2" thick, and has an 18" throat. It feels better than the Harbor Freight one, being a thicker plate (HF one is 3/8") and having grease fittings. It is also identical to the Eastwood economy model, likely from the same Chinese factory. Plus, the Woodward Fab tools in general have a good reputation, especially compared to HF.
The above picture isn't my attempt at advertising- I was just too lazy to remove the "super low price" artwork.
So I pulled my Woodward Fab bead roller out of the box, installed it on the vise, assembled it and gave it a try. The dies do their job, and it stays fairly lined up, but the frame plate has tons of flex! And most noticeable was side to side flexing. Now the plans to reinforce (and make it look pretty) begin...



The picture above shows one of the patterns I made for cutting the bottom plate. The green line is where the purchased frame plate would meet the added curved reinforcing plate that this pattern produces. I formed this and a top pattern (after lots of sketching) on Masonite with my little jigsaw, and then aligned the patterns to some 1/2" plate and plasma-cut the pieces.



Here is a picture showing the top plate and bottom plate welded to the Woodward Fab frame. I tried to give it an industrial look, like a tool in a vocational shop that has form-following-function (or maybe the other way around...) with an earlier appearance. You can see the welds are ground down and the paint from the original piece is ground off.


After using scrap from my generous boss Matt (Owner of the company I work for) and a '28 Ford torque tube, I came up with this neat stand assembly. It has an almost antique industrial look, but also spartan. It is still going to be top heavy, so I will bolt it to the floor.


Above shows another view, this of the backside. The 2"x2" square tube is actually the major reinforcement; it does more work than the vertical pieces I meshed with the original plate. This idea was copied from the very cool ideas I found online. The vertical round tube is scrap pieces I cut and lined up for holders of the dies not being used. I like the curvy-shaped plate I added to the pedestal tubing. It calms my fears of weak spots, and looks good too!



Here it is bolted to the floor. I used those female thread anchors that stay level in the concrete, so I can easily remove the bolts and move the assembly out of the way. The paint is the last drops of DuPont Variprime leftovers I had, given to me for free by an old neighbor. It is a 2-part etching primer, and I didn't want to see it go to waste. Plus, now I have something paint can bite to.





These two pictures show the assembled bead roller and the extra dies sitting on their holders.



This above pictures shows the first experiments with scraps from Creer Sheet Metal. This bead roller is going to be wonderful for floor pans, body reinforcements, and even patch panels. I see lots of possibilities!



This last pic shows the completed project including the wheel I made to operate it with. The crank it came with is not nearly as usable. I made this wheel from the foot rest of a broken bar stool, and the spokes/mounting assembly from channel scrap I scrounged from a spiral staircase I helped remove. It works with no noticed flex and cost was very low, unless you count my time and tools. But I wanted to build it...!

You can be sure of Shell

---

To kick start the New Year, Charterhouse will be selling a large Shell collection in their Classic Car, Motorcycle and Automobilia auction on Sunday 13th February at The Footman James Restoration Show.

Consigned from a Somerset fuel suppliers, the collection has been amassed over the last 50 years and includes many enamel signs, petrol pump globes, prints, advertising and related items estimated to sell for several thousands of pounds.

“It is a comprehensive collection, the likes of which rarely come to the market.” Commented Matthew Whitney. “It’s quite amazing to think that they have been in only one family ownership for the past several decades and will now go to only their second owner.”

Also entered in this sale is a 1973 Ford Escort Mexico Historic Group 2 rally car from a Cornish client. This has been fully rebuilt from a bare shell with receipts of over £60,000 and if offered for auction at a fraction of the re-build cost. This will be a turn key solution for any budding competitor in historic rallying and would enable them to compete immediately without having to go through the expense of having to source and rebuild a similar car. 

For further information regarding this auction, or for advice on how to enter a vehicle or automobilia, please contact Matthew Whitney, Head of Department, at Charterhouse, The Long Street Salerooms, Sherborne, Dorset DT9 3BS, 01935 812277
or via email mw@charterhouse-auctions.co.uk

Captions:
A Shell Cars For Hire enamel sign
A Ford Escort Mexico Historic Group 2 Rally Car £25,000-28,000
Quick Links

Forthcoming Sale Previous Sale Sale Preview

Tel: (01935) 812277

For further information regarding this article, please contact Richard Bromell, Partner

'62 Olds: More Updates

Here's a little peek at more progress. I finished replacing the driver side infected lower 1/4 area, and started experimenting with paint stripper on the driver fender and door. As long as I put it on thick, keep it moist and wait at least 45 minutes, it works well. This time I've decided to slow down, focusing on one part of the project at a time.

The pics below show what is done so far.

FACEBOOK PAGES UP & REVVING !

New Sportscar Supplies Facebook Page

We are now on facebook! Become a fan of our page and be kept instantly up to date with news, special offers and new products. Join now for November discount offer. Add your classic car to our photo gallery. Links to classic car clubs and enthusiast sites welcome. Just follow the link below.

Used Classic Morris Minor Cars models Morris Minor 1000 Parts 2

Picture Of

Classic Morris Minor Cars

Classic Morris Minor Cars

Morris Minor Cars Parts 1

The Minor 1000 gained an even larger engine, 1098 cc (67 in³, in 1962. It could now reach 77 mph (124 km/h), yet fuel economy was down to 38 mpg (6.2 L/100 km). Other modifications included a new dashboard layout (a lidded glove box on the passenger side, an open cubby hole in front of the driver), a different heater, plus new, larger tail/flasher and front side/flasher lamps.

Picture Of

Classic Morris Minor Cars

Van versions were popular with the British Post Office, and some of these had front wings made of rubber, in order to cope with the sometimes unforgiving busy situations in which they were expected to work.

Picture Of

Classic Morris Minor Cars

During the life of the Minor 1000 model, production declined. The last Convertible/Tourer was manufactured on 18 August 1969, and the saloon line was discontinued the next year. 1971 was the last year for the Traveller and commercial versions. Nearly 850,000 Minor 1000s were made in all. The Minor 1000 cars was officially replaced by the Morris Marina, which replaced it on the Cowley production lines. For the management of what had, by 1971, mutated into the British Leyland Motor Corporation, the Morris Marina was seen primarily as a "cheap to build" competitor to Ford's top selling (and in many respects conservatively engineered) Cortina, rather than as a replacement for the (in its day) strikingly innovative Morris Minor.

Picture Of

Classic Morris Minor Cars

Engines:

* 1956-1962:948 cc A-Series Straight-4, 37 hp (28 kW) at 4750 rpm and 50 lbf·ft (68 N·m) at 2500 rpm
* 1962-1971:1098 cc A-Series Straight-4, 48 hp (36 kW) at 5100 rpm and 60 lbf·ft (81 N·m) at 2500 rpm

Used Classic Morris Minor Cars models Morris Minor 1000 Parts 1
Used Classic Morris Minor Cars models Morris Minor Series II Parts 1

Used Classic Restoration Cars Tip Troubles getting a thin layer of body filler...? Parts 1

Picture Of

Classic Restoration Cars

Restoration Cars

Restoration Cars Parts 1

Anyone who's used body filler knows how difficult it is to spread over "delicate" areas. You know: when the filler has to spread over a very thin imperfection or just has to provide that "last little surface."

The problem is that the filler is fairly viscous and resists being spread in a thin film. The result is air bubbles or a thicker-than-desired surface that requires more careful sanding. While there are specialized fillers designed to spread more evenly, here's another useful idea: Add a little liquid fiberglass resin (you invariably have a big can of it that will never get used up!) to the body filler and catalyst mixture. Stir everything well (the catalyst works in both products, so don't worry) and there you have it - a smooth, less-viscous, creamy mixture that will spread beautifully.

Used Classic Restoration Cars Tip Cleaning Delicate Parts 1
Used Classic Restoration Cars Tip The Right Way to Check Your Oil Parts 1

Used Classic Restoration Cars Tip The Right Way to Check Your Oil Parts 1

Picture Of

Classic Restoration Cars

Restoration Cars

Restoration Cars Parts 1

You know how the motor control and in the case of the automatic transmission fluid: just look at the dipstick. The right - or wrong - the level of coverage is obvious.

What is not is obviously the condition of the oil, so the next time it is a clean piece of white paper with you. Paper towels or toilet paper are most suitable for this operation.

Clean the dipstick on the white paper and watch the remaining oil. Engine oil should be firm, without a particle or "sect". If they exist, you have to watch out for leaks and oil change. Recognizing the rest of smell, traces of gasoline, or "blow-by" or the smell of burnt oil.

Purposes of this test with gear oil, it should also be a color (usually red), not "burned" visible particles or color. If it smells burnt, it was too long or there are problems inside the transmission.

Classic Restoration Cars Tip 1 - Chattering Windshield Wipers Sure are Annoying!

Used Classic Morris Minor Cars models Morris Minor 1000 Parts 1

Picture Of

Classic Morris Minor Cars

Morris Minor Cars

Morris Minor Cars Parts 1

The Morris Minor Cars was again updated in 1956, when the engine is in capacity to 948 cc (57.9 cu in) increases. The division into two parts windscreen has increased with a curve of a piece and the rear window was replaced. In 1961 trafficators by more modern style lights flashing direction indicators have replaced and then the norm for the UK market. A luxury car on the lower floor, but with higher BMC B series engine was sold as One-Point-Five/Wolseley Riley from 1500 to 1957: a version with additional rear fins, or variation of this Wolseley Riley was also in Australia as Morris Major manufactures.

In February 1961 the Morris Minor was the first British car to sell over 1,000,000 units. (In Italy, the Fiat 600 won his first million in the same month.) In order to achieve, limited edition of 350 two-door sedan was small with a distinctive purple color, and remember a white interior created. Even the badge on the hood has been changed to read "Minor 1,000,000" instead of the usual "Children 1000". The millionth the same child, the National Union of Journalists, where they planned to use as a prize in a competition for the benefit of the widow of the union and Orphan Fund. The company, which was at the same time, a minor celebrity in London's Great Ormond Street Hospital for Sick Children, but the car was built from cake.

Morris Minor Cars Models MM Classic Cars

SCS 5 STAR MGOC APPROVAL

MANY THANKS TO ALL MGOC MEMBERS WHO TOOK THE TIME TO SUBMIT THIS YEARS ANNUAL MGOC QUESTIONAIRE. WE MUST BE DOING SOMETHING RIGHT AS WE REMAIN 5 STAR APPROVED SUPPLIERS !

Restoration Classic Cars : Used Classic Restoration Cars Tip Cleaning Delicate Parts 1

Used Classic Restoration Cars Tip Cleaning Delicate Parts 1

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Classic Restoration Cars

Restoration Cars

Restoration Cars Parts 1

Do you have a filthy, painted-over, but otherwise salvageable VIN, engine, transmission or other identification plate that is original to the car? Probably so, and you don't know how to clean it up without losing the very imprints you're trying to save.

Many of these plates were silk-screened or printed in easy-to-remove, oil-based inks, so you don't want to attempt a cleaning using solvents or abrasives. What should you do?

Do what the restoration Car people at museums do, of course! Use gel-type hand cleaners!

That's right, the art historians who regularly restore priceless paintings use everyday gel hand cleaners (you know, the greasy stuff that doesn't contain pumice!) to gently lift off layers of crud from the delicate finishes.

Use very soft cloth or cotton balls spread with a thin film of cleaner. Gently wipe the plate surface back and forth, changing the cleaning material as it picks up dirt and grease. Be patient, because this will take considerable time. Eventually your plate will look quite presentable, if not like new. When finished you can apply a little polish to the plate to brighten it up.

Your identification plate might not have anywhere near the value of a museum painting, but it's just as important to you, so clean it carefully.

Restoration Classic Cars Tip 1 - Chattering Windshield Wipers Sure are Annoying!

Morris Minor : Used Classic Morris Minor Cars models Morris Minor Series II Parts 1

Used Classic Morris Minor Cars models Morris Minor Series II Parts 1

Picture Of

Classic Morris Minor Cars

Morris Minor Cars

Morris Minor Cars Parts 1

In 1952, the Morris Minor Cars line was updated with an Austin-designed 803 cc (49.0 cu in) overhead valve A-Series engine replacing the original sidevalve unit. The engine had been designed for the Morris Minor Cars's main competition, the Austin A30, but became available as Austin Cars and Morris Minor Cars were merged into the British Motor Corporation. The new engine felt stronger, though all measurements were smaller than the old. The 52 second drive to 60 mph (97 km/h) was still calm, with 63 mph (101 km/h) as the top speed. Fuel consumption also rose to 36 mpg (6.5 L/100 km).

An estate version was introduced, known as the Traveller (a Morris Minor Cars naming tradition for estates, also seen on the Mini Cars), along with Morris Minor van and Morris Minor pick-up versions. The Traveller featured an external structural ash (wood) frame for the rear bodywork, with two side-hinged rear doors. The frame was varnished rather than painted and a highly visible feature of the bodystyle. Rear bodies of the Morris Minor van versions were all steel. The 4-seat Morris Minor convertible and Morris Minor saloon variants continued as well.

The grille was modified in October, 1954, and a new dashboard with central speedometer was fitted. Almost half a million examples had been produced when the line ended in 1956.

The Motor magazine tested a 4-door saloon in 1952. It reported a top speed of 62 mph (100 km/h) and acceleration from 0–50 mph (80 km/h) in 28.6 seconds. A fuel consumption of 39.3 miles per imperial gallon (7.19 L/100 km; 32.7 mpg-US) was recorded. The test car cost £631 including taxes.

Engines:

* 1952-1956:803 cc A-Series Straight-4, 30 hp (22 kW) at 4800 rpm and 40 lbf·ft (54 N·m) at 2400 rpm

Morris Minor Cars Models MM Classic Cars

'62 Olds Updates...

I made the first repair piece for the '62 Olds. This one worked better than expected, especially with the crease that fades away to flat. Test fits required multiple trimming, twisting, hammering and shrinking. And it finally reached this stage! The pictures below show the final shape, fit and attaching of the piece.
The last picture shows where welds were ground. I am frustrated with the weld area sucking in so much... I am thinking I didn't give consistent cool down times in between welds. Other than that, it is now part of the car and fitting good.

Classic & Racing Cars, Motorbikes & Automobilia Nov 7th 2010

An MG TA Racing Car Special
















An MG TA















An MG TA
















An MG TC



Classic & Racing Cars, Motorbikes & Automobilia Nov 7th - (Page 2)

Cars in all Shapes and Sizes at Charterhouse

The monster Vauxhall Magnum V8 racer £25,000-35,000
The Charterhouse autumn auction programme offers collectors and dealers of model cars and classic cars a great opportunity to add valuable and rare items into their garages and cabinets. First up on Thursday 21st October is a sale devoted to model vehicles and trains, which is then followed on Sunday 7th October with a sale of classic cars at The Royal Bath & West Showground, Shepton Mallet.

“We have been instructed to sell a huge selection of Dinky, Corgi and other models from a Dorset client. There are probably somewhere in the region of over 2,000 models, some of which are play worn and some of which are in their original boxes, it is the largest collection I have seen for several years.” Commented Matthew Whitney. “This auction is then followed by our classic car sale which includes one of the best selection of vehicles we have had the please to be instructed to sell including a 1919 Model T Ford through to a very special Vauxhall Magnum known as The John Pope Special. This is far from standard and is fitted with a sanctioned Aston Martin V8 engine with Le Mans cylinder heads, bolted onto which are two massive turbo’s. It is quite a monster and was raced extensively in the early to mid 1970’s.”

Amongst the Dinky and Corgi cars there are some real little gems, There are motors from James Bond films, complete with rockets and other gadgets to Police cars with detailed engine bays and steering suspension, and with estimates from £50 up to a few hundred, there will be something for every collector. In the full size cars, there are several convertibles including an Austin Healey 3000, Morris Minor and Beetle convertibles, an Armstrong Siddley tourer and two well detailed and authentic replica cars in the shape of a Ferrari Daytona convertible and a Jaguar SS100 convertible, each being about the tenth of the cost of the real thing.

Charterhouse is now accepting entries for both of these sales. For further information or to arrange a free home visit to have you classic car or Dinky models valued, please contact Matthew Whitney at Charterhouse, The Long Street Salerooms, Sherborne DT9 3BS www.charterhouse-auctions.co.uk or via email mw@charterhouse-auctions.co.uk

Tornado Typhoon (1958, England)

In 1958 the British company presents its new model Tornado Tornado Typhoon Sportbrake.
In addition to plug-in modules, the firm manufactured Tornado sports cars that date two and four parking spaces in the form of coupes and cabriolets. Its fiber-body cars have racks mounted on cash, the headlights are covered by a Plexiglas baffle while the intake manifold of two bodies the bonnet crown. The engines of 1,200 cc and 2,000 are provided by Ford and Triumph respectively.
Based on the model of fourth places Typhoon increased wheelbase, the model is developed Sportbrake combi. The roof is extended until the end of the body and a door as practicable to the top back. This vehicle is equipped with a four-cylinder engine line and lateral operated valves, provided by Ford.
With its 55 hp engine reaches 150 km / h. Sportbrake The model is manufactured until 1962 and became a model for a number of sports combined in subsequent years the market will draw other manufacturers.

Mercedes Benz 540K (1938, Germany)

The Mercedes-Benz 540K (K = compressor) is the successor to the Model 500 K. With its classic lines, this vehicle combines the best technology with the highest dynamic comfort.
because the firm takes into account the demands of their customers, each of the 447 vehicles produced is different. With the compressor connected, eight-cylinder engine generates an output of 180 hp and a top speed of 170 km / h, consuming 30 liters per 100 km is said that Adolf Hitler gave her a Mercedes-Benz 540K "Long", whose length exceeds 6m series models in 1m.